LOW COST TRIPS AROUND BRUSSELS: CARNAVAL DE BINCHE

Another entry in the - somewhat unchronological - series of posts documenting our little trips. I promise to keep it up to date from this weekend on, so that there is no jumping in time. I don't think you care, really, it's more for my comfort: I like things neat and ordered. Having said that, I also like a bit of chaos in my life. And this is why I like carnival, when everything is upside-down for just a few days, and you can become whoever you want to be and no-one will judge you. Yes, carnival is fun, and I strongly believe we don't celebrate it enough in Poland. In short, Carnaval de Binche, ladies and gentlemen. Off we go.

Destination: Binche, a town in the Wallonian region, about an hour train-ride from Brussels.
Transport: Train, destination Binche.
Equipement: picnic, comfy shoes and mimosa flowers. If you don't have any, you can get them there.
Cost: return-trip to Binche: 9,60 euro/person. Beer (not obligatory): 3 euro/person.

Binche is a nice medieval town, well worth a visit even if it's not Carnival time. The town hall, built in 1555, is just lovely, and the International Museum of Carnival and Masks (Musée International du Carnaval et du Masque) is charming and will teach you all about traditions from different parts of the world. It even boasts a photo from Poland, which I felt was a nice touch. However, the town's greatest attraction is the Carnaval de Binche, which has even made it to the UNESCO list of Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and thus it is best to visit it on Shrove Tuesday (the famous Mardi Gras) or at least on one of the two preceding days (we went on Sunday, as I had a job interview on Tuesday).

The Carnival tradition in Binche reaches back as early as the fourteenth century. During the Monday and Sunday celebrations, groups of people dressed up in elaborate costumes parade the streets of Binche, accompanied by the noise/music of drums. People follow them around the town, always ending up on the main square, where, if they manage to squeeze into one of the many bars, they might get a sip of the Binchoise, the local beer. It's all party party party, although, as opposed to Galicia, only the kids dress up (and the adults belonging to the formal groups). Most people do, however, decorate their hats or coats with mimosa flowers, whose gentle smell is hovering in the air at all times.

The real celebration... we missed (work more important than fun, apparently). It is on Shrove Tuesday and on Shrove Tuesday exclusively that the Gilles - men born and raised in Binche - put on their traditionasl costumes, clogs and green-eyed masks. In the morning they dance with sticks to ward off bad spirits, while in the afternoon they wear plumes and - for a reason unknown to yours truly - throw oranges at the (un)lucky observers.

According to my guide, this tradition dates back to pagan times, but

the Gilles were probably inspired by the fancy dress worn by Mary of Hungary's court at a banquet held in honour of Charles V in 1549; Peru had recently been added to the Habsburg Empire, and the courtiers celebrated the conquest by dressing up in (their version of) Inca gear (The Rough Guide to Belgium and Luxembourg, 2008, p. 328).

I'm really disappointed to have missed it. Already a plan for next year!

Clearly, the colourful drinking crowd becomes still more colourful and drunk as the time passes. I recommend not to bring any valuables with you, and, unless you want to overpay dreadfully, think about packing your own picnic. Binche will be bustling with people, so if you feel like seeing a bit of the town before the real party starts, get there early. All in all, it really reminded me of Galicia. The costumes, the music, the party people... Yes, Poland might just be short of one tradition. Here's my postulate for 2012: let's celebrate Carnival big time!