Monday, May 30, 2011

LOW COST TRIPS AROUND BRUSSELS: LA MAISON D'ERASME

The Erasmus House in Anderlecht
You open your eyes. It's a sunny Saturday morning in Brussels. You feel like going for a walk. The old town? Oh my, the tourist crowd is unbearable at the weekends (Why is Manneken Pis so small? Why do they make me choose between a Brussels waffle and a Liege waffle when all I want is a decent Belgian waffle? Where do I buy the best French fries?). A park? Yes, nice, but you've been to all of them already, haven't you? Ardennes? Too far away. Walk around your neighbourhood? Too close. And then an illumination: why not the Maison d'Erasme (House of Erasmus) - a museum and park/picnic spot combined?
Destination: La Maison d'Erasme.
Transport: bus 49 or underground 5, get off at Saint Guidon stop.
Equipement: walking shoes, change for coffee and a camera.
Cost: public transport ticket plus 1,25 Euro entrance fee.
Yes, you're right, there is a bus stop right next to Maison d'Erasme, which saves you a few minutes walking from Saint Guidon. But these few minutes are very much worth devoting to a nice stroll through the most beautiful part of Anderlecht, a usually frowned-upon and not very touristy neighbourhood.

The Beguine convent
So make sure you take a good look at the pretty Place de la Vaillance and its century-old houses. I recommend a coffee on one of the terraces - just sit down and take in the view of the majestic Saint Guidon church. The church itself is only a few steps from the old Beguine convent (Beguinage), built in the XIII century and serving its original purpose for five centuries. A very welcoming ticket lady will tell you all about the Beguines and their habits: apparently, they were women who were widowed, unmarried or whose husbands were doing their duty and dying in a war somewhere; they would live together for protection and peace, in a semi-religious order (but they could leave whenever they wanted), providing the local community with small services, such as taking care of the sick. Their two houses are now available for tourists and host a splendid exhibition of... stuff. From a bicycle to child's high chair to tiny furniture made from feathers - you will find lots of XVIII and XIX century things that belonged to the people of Anderlecht. However, apart from the chairs in the little chapel, no original Beguine belongings have survived to this day. Oh, and you get in on the same ticket you buy for the Maison d'Erasme.

The latter is within a two-minute stroll from the Beguinage. Surrounded by a high wall, it is a XV century house, which was built to accommodate the church's most prominent guests. One of those - for the period of five full months - was Erasmus from Rotterdam. Apparently, if you're famous enough, they will name a house after you even though you only spent a few months there. The museum inside is sort of a tribute to Erasmus and his work, with an impressive collection of first editions of his books, many interesting paintings and a disturbingly large cartoon-like figure of the man himself in the hall. 

The garden
But the real treat is the garden or rather - the two gardens (entrance is free, by the way). The first one plays with the idea that the great Erasmus was a bit of a hypochondriac. It thus contains all the possible curative plants that could've helped the poor man to cure all his supposed ailments. Each plant is accompanied by a little figure of Erasmus, on which the affected body part is indicated. The benefit of the visit is thus triple: you learn about the man's brilliance but also about his weaknesses and, finally, you get to know the plants!
The other garden is lovely, if a bit small. The original benches beg for a photo, and so do the Latin phrases, surrounded by water and translated into three languages. This part of the garden is called philosophical, and, I must say, it does inspire silent contemplation (ours was limited to What are we doing for lunch? but at a different time of day something more philosophical might enter your head in view of both the scenery and history). 

Sounds interesting? What are you waiting for then? Go and enjoy your Saturday morning at the House of Erasmus!

For more pictures go here.

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